Let’s complete this blog series about how to hack Fcmila smart bulbs with this model:
It is an RGBCW bulb, that is able to emit – in addition to all the different colors – also warm (W) white and cold (C) white.
Externally – apart from the “WIFI…” silkscreen – it’s identical to the first bulb I modified:
After removing the diffuser, you can see the RGB LEDs (inside) and the white LEDs (warm and cold alternating) outside. As in the previous models, the control board is again mounted vertically and protrudes from the LED PCB:
With a knife or a small screwdriver it’s easy to remove the glue which keeps the two PCBs connected to the body of the bulb:
It is possible to separate the two PCBs by removing the 8-pin connector that connects them.
Unlike other models, the LED PCB (labeled RC-6429) uses integrated circuits (BP5778 and BP1633) instead of single MOSFETs:
The control module is labeled C-8138. Thanks to Blakadder, it was discovered that it’s pin-to-pin compatible with ESP8266 modules.
So I removed the module from the PCB using an hot air gun and compared its pinout with an ESP-12E module:
In the time since the last tutorial, I bought a programmer for the ESP8266 modules and it was therefore easy to program the Tasmota firmware. After programming, I soldered the new module on the PCB:
I then reassembled the light bulb and started testing to define the correct template in Tasmota:
To control the LEDs you need 5 PWM channels. The correct mapping to GPIO pins is as follows:
Once the configuration is complete, the smart light bulb is fully functional with the new firmware:
For my curiosity, I soldered some wires to the original control module and tried to connect its serial interface to the PC (it was necessary to connect the EN pin to Vcc via a 10Kohm resistor):
I found that the original module is based on the AliOS Things firmware, developed by Aliexpress to manage smart devices using its own cloud service:
Conclusions
With this blog post I complete my efforts to make Fcmila smart bulbs more open.
As you have read, the manufacturer has adopted different solutions based on the products I analyzed. Some bulbs are therefore easier to modify, requiring only a reprogramming of the control module, while others require a complete replacement of this module.
If you are interested to buy a smart bulb for installing Tasmota (or a different open firmware), my suggestion is therefore to choose the smart bulbs that are compatible with Smart Life app:
Ciao Luca, le lampade basate sul firmware Tasmota sono riconosciute dall’applicazione Smart Life ? Che tipo di Firmware è necesario utilizzare per avere la compatibilità con Smart Life ?
ciao Diego, per usare l’app SmartLife devi acquistare una lampada compatibile: essendo una applicazione e un firmware proprietario di Tuya, funziona solo con i dispositivi realizzati per tale app; non esistono firmware “alternativi” che puoi caricare per rendere compatibile una lampada che non lo è.
La Domanda era finalizzata ad uno scopo ben preciso, mi piacerebbe utilizzare gli ESP per realizzare delle periferiche Smart come appunto luci colorare ( anche con NeoPixel ) , Relè, ecc …. e fino a qui non è un grande problema il tuo articolo è un buon inizio per le luci tradizionali mentre per il resto è da verificare.
Il mio grande dilemma è più sulla parte di automazione. Mi piacerebbe avere una App simile a Smart Life per firmware Trasmota ( visto che sembra semplice il suo utilizo ) e che tramite questo si possa collegare a Google Home o Alexa. E’ possibile fare questo?
Diego, l’approccio che vedo più diffuso (ed è quello che sto adottando anche io) è l’uso di un “hub domestico” (io uso Home Assistant ma ce ne sono altri) che faccia da concentratore per tutte le periferiche smart. In questo modo non devi assicurarti che tutte le periferiche siano dello stesso tipo, perché l’hub è normalmente compatibile con tantissimi modelli diversi. Userai poi l’app dell’hub per comandare tutte le periferiche e – volendo – potrai anche integrare l’hub con Alexa e/o Google Home.
This is great!
Having two of these bulbs, although the led boards show later numbers but the chip is the same. Have replaced withe the Esp-12 and created a ‘meeting in progress’ light for my home office using the IOS shortcuts app, which is calling a home assistant automation (via the companion app).
well done John, thanks for your feedback!
Very helpful. I bought 4 of these bulbs off aliexpress about 6 months ago. Sadly 3 of them had stopped working properly, they’ve started to randomly flicker. They were fine before and connect to normal non-dim switches. So I’m thinking the cheap drivers inside have started to go. Anyway it was nice to see how ‘restricted’ they were and that I should look at the smart life bulbs instead. Thank you
thanks for your comment!
Hi Luca, excellent guideline on transplanting the esp chip.
What’s the best way to disassemble and assemble the metal contact below the bulb base?
So I can solder the bottom cable back after removing the pcb board,
Thanks! Well I didn’t remove the metal contact: instead I cut the bottom cable to be able to remove the PCB board and then solder it together again after the mod.